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Meta

Singapore

Ever-shifting restaurant manifesting constant culinary evolution

On the Pass

Sun Kim

Pastry Chef

Rachel An

Who's at the stove? Sun Kim spent most of his life in South Korea before leaving to work for chef Tetsuya Wakuda at Tetsuya's in Sydney and then at Waku Ghin in Singapore. Meta opened its doors in December 2015 and chef Sun has been at its helm ever since.

What's the space like? Since moving to a new location in 2018, the restaurant has been lined with wooden floors and walls, giving the dining room a warm, welcoming feel. While there are no private rooms, ask for one of the tables nestled in the corners for more intimacy, or sit at the counter to watch your desserts and cold snacks being plated in front of you.

How does the name relate to the food? Meta is short for ‘metamorphosis’. It represents Sun Kim’s continually moving edible ethos. His is a unique blend of influences: you'll often see produce sourced from Japan cooked with French techniques and kissed with Korean flavours. The menu changes roughly every three months in accordance with the seasons, but among the permanent signatures is simmered and grilled abalone from Jeju Island served atop a risotto made from Korean short grain rice, barley and buckwheat, flavoured with abalone liver sauce. The main course is another constant on the menu, inspired by Korean barbecue: earthy burdock root rice paired with marinated grilled meat and served with white kimchi, a recipe passed down by chef Sun's grandmother.

Why dine at Meta? While there is no shortage of fine dining options in Singapore, Meta seamlessly blends Eastern and Western cuisines, executed with an unmatched level of finesse. The service is warm and polished and the decor of the restaurant – including the lack of white tablecloths – is testament that you can enjoy an incredible dining experience without the stiffness of traditional fine dining.

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